Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Channeling...

Gwyneth Paltrow
in
The Talented Mr. Ripley


with
Hayden Harnett




Really?

Within a matter of minutes after opening at 7:30 AM, everything at luxury e-tailer The Outnet's $1 designer sale sold out.

Millions of girls everywhere were probably kicking themselves that morning for not being quick enough to snag a Proenza Schouler dress for the cost of a cup of coffee, or a pair of coveted Louboutins for a single bone. I, for one, was kicking myself with a pair of steel-toed boots because I had totally forgotten about the sale (though I largely blame the site for not sending out a reminder e-mail the day before). But it looks like it doesn't matter; with orders coming in at a rate of 9 per second, only a lucky handful were able to score.

Said the Outnet:

“Whilst we were prepared for the volume of traffic the sale would deliver, we were overwhelmed by the speed at which people came to the site.

“This remarkable volume – up to nine orders a second – led the site to crash in some markets and I want to say that we are very sorry to all those disappointed people who didn’t get to buy anything at the sale, but delighted for all of those who did.”

For the minority of those who triumphed - I hate you and I hope a bird poops on your bought-for-a-dollar Chloe bag.

For the rest -- a support group.

Vintage Coachella


The Ice Queen

Do you like me, Anna?
Circle yes or no.

Friday, April 16, 2010

Fun Facts


I cannot for my life figure out how to enlarge this with decent resolution!! Anyway, click through to read about the top sites that wealthy shoppers visit...you will be surprised.

J.Crew Does It Again

As of late, J.Crew has been partnering with a range of established labels to expand its offerings of affordable luxury. These partnerships have spawned a number of hit items: retro Timex watches, exclusive Redwing boots, and even a selection of Essie nail polishes in adorable colors.

Now, the esteemed American retailer has added a new jewelry line to its portfolio of partnerships. Creative director Jenna Lyons handpicked Dana Lorenz of Fenton/Fallon to produce a line of rocker chic jewelry. A longtime Fenton/Fallon fan, Lyons had searched high and low for the line to no avail; then, one day, the stars aligned when she was seated next to the CFDA-nominated designer herself at Maria Cornejo’s private dinner party.

And therein lies the foundation of what is truly a remarkable collection. Lorenz remained true to her roots and brought to life an amazing assortment of ‘tough chic’ jewelry.

“I didn’t water my design down at all,” she told Harper’s Bazaar. “I included all of my iconic Fenton-Fallon things, like the pyramid studs, spikes, and jumbled chains.”

The pieces range from $95 to $295 and can be found in-stores and on jcrew.com

Thursday, April 15, 2010

Fast Fashion

I work in a world where everything has to be done months in advance; we are always at the very least two seasons ahead. In order to sell a pair of jeans in stores in September, the company has to send the order to its factories as early as February. And while we may stipulate that we need the jeans in our DC by, say, August 25th, the factories sometimes can’t even achieve this deadline – even with 7 months notice.

And sometimes, because we need to reach these deadlines, we place our orders to the factories before we can even get market reaction – before we can even get an idea of what the demand would be. Sometimes, we’re spot on with the trends, and other times, it’s a total miss, resulting in a loss of hundreds of thousands of dollars.

So all this has me thinking – how do fast fashion retailers like Zara, Forever 21, and H&M operate? Unlike the rest of the forward-thinking fashion world, these retailers live in the now. They pick up on current trends and bestselling items from high-end designers, then produce it with cheaper materials and stock their stores within a matter of weeks – and at a fraction of the retail price.

But how is this possible? How can they design, source and produce thousands of styles in a matter of days? It truly boggles me -- so I did some research and actually came across this article from the Harvard Business Review. It is a great, comprehensive explanation of the concept of “fast fashion” and how Zara in particular operates their business. It also points out the intrinsic differences between fast fashion retailers and the rest of the retail world – differences in strategy, structure, product offering, and customer experience.

Click here to read it. It is really quite interesting.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Abercrombie: Black Listed

Abercrombie landed a spot on Corporate Responsibility Magazine's list of worst, or rather, least transparent companies.

The magazine defines transparency as publicizing information such as employee benefits, climate-change policies and philanthropric efforts. [NYT]

Jump.

Sunday, April 11, 2010

Ginger Fashion Faux Pas

A ginger in pink!!! There is no mercy, even for small children...

Saturday, April 10, 2010

"Garance is our daily bread."

I am stealing these pictures from Garance Dore's (how do I add an accent here?!) blog because I need to make sure I have them filed away somewhere forever. I love this one because 1 - it is so beautifully shot, 2 - I wish I had that hair! and 3 - I am very inspired by the subject's layering of wrist accessories.

And this one just because :)


http://www.garancedore.fr/en/

I must find this!!


Just discovered Species by the Thousands, a small Brooklyn-based jewelry and apparel label. The apparel selection is unremarkable -- an assortment of tees with abstract graphics, not really my cup of tea. BUT -- the jewelry is very cool. Simple styles influenced in design and texture by nature and wildlife motifs. I absolutely must find this McCarren 2-finger ring:


They have a booth at the Brooklyn flea (W12) so I will be going next weekend to look.

Supermarket

I just found another website to spend hours getting lost on.

Supermarket is an online marketplace that allows designers to list and sell their products. Its essentially the same idea as Etsy. Products range from apparel and accessories to jewelry and even home goods. Better yet, the site's blog, Superblog, highlights some of the best picks, as well has pieces that have made it into the press.

Some of my favorite finds:

Ziptie ring by metalnat :: $85.00


Handforged sterling silver pendant by Epheriell :: $36.00


Strapless Ikat dress by Annabelle :: $160.00


Wedge tote by scabbyrobot :: $88.00

Friday, April 9, 2010

He came from Wall Street?

Today I am very much enjoying Submersive Glamour, the cheeky blog of Createthe Group's founder, James Gardner. I have personally worked with them and find their vision very inspirational, so its interesting to delve into the mind of the man behind the company.

The infamous boots


Its finally open!!!!! Isabel Marant's only U.S. outpost. They're not selling the boots, but an employee was wearing them...

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Fashion Stake


Harvard B-School alum Vivien Wang has founded an Internet startup “Fashion Stake” that will bring crowdsourcing to emerging fashion labels.

How does it work? Site visitors can invest $50 in any of the labels featured; in return, they receive privileges like clothing credits, exclusive previews, showroom visits, and tickets to fashion shows. They will also have the ability to provide feedback on the collections. While the site is focused on helping up and coming designers, it does require that the fashion companies have some existing presence in the industry. Weng noted that the site will also offer capsule collections from prominent designers – but no names have been dropped yet.

If it catches on, I think Fashion Stake could be a revolutionary movement to change the way the fashion industry works.

First, its no secret that most fashion companies don’t have a big bottom line – as successful as a designer may be, it can take years and years for him/her simply to breakeven (think Alexander McQueen – it took him more than 7 years). Rather than finding investment groups to buy up equity in their labels, fashion designers can now elicit funding from the masses – funding that could literally make the difference between sink or swim for their labels. Many labels can’t even get past the big retailers, who often ignore smaller labels for more established houses even when the talent is undeniable. Now, these labels are given the chance to show the world what they’ve got.

Secondly, the site provides the opportunity to boost profitability for the designers by eliminating the middle man. The longstanding model of the fashion industry begins with the manufacturer/wholesaler, moves to the retailer, and finally hits the end customer. Somewhere in between, all the margin gets eaten up – it most often goes to the retailer. Fashion Stake CEO Daniel Gulati says the site will allow the designers to reap the margins by distributing directly to the customer.

"What we're basically doing is {…} cutting out the retailer altogether."

And this is truly genius. Why? Its creating a relationship between the designer and the customer – with no one in between. Through the site, the customer can support his/her favorite designers directly, and receive gratification from the designer just as directly. The site provides a stream of personal and constant dialogue between the two. And this is exactly why sites like Twitter and Facebook have proven so beneficial for businesses.

In an industry where everything is SO, so edited – designers produce a line, a group of people then decide what the retailer wants, and then of those pieces, the buyers pick and choose the ones they believe the public may want – Fashion Stake is putting the decision-making in the hands of the customer to decide ultimately for herself. For some, this may not be ideal, but for me – I love seeing and discovering new talent – so I’ll be signing up on Day 1.

Wednesday, April 7, 2010

Viva Vena

I have died and gone to heaven.

WWD reported today that design duo Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai of Brooklyn-based Vena Cava will be debuting Viva Vena, a lower-priced collection of cotton and jersey basics, for Fall 2010. The collection, which will be produced in Los Angeles, will include organic and cotton dresses, tees, and tanks, all to retail at $200 or below. But fear not - knowing them, it will be anything but basic. Having scoped out the competition, Mayock and Buhai recognized the abundant availability of solid cotton and jersey knits at the designated price point (think T By Alexander Wang, Superfine, Kain). So, the two will take the same approach to this line as they have with Vena Cava: they will tap into their infamous knack for offbeat and memorable prints and deliver pieces made from photo collages and hand-drawn patterns.

The line is set to hit in July - you can find it at Saks, Bergdorf Goodman, Barneys, La Garconne, and ShopBop.

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

April Deals

On ShopDolceVita.com - 20% off all spring styles through April 11th.

On ErynBrinie.com - use "luckyyou" for 30% off everything

At Hayden Harnett - 30% off if you mention Lucky at checkout.

Friday, April 2, 2010

Cynthia Rowley is a "Montauk Surfer Girl"


American designer Cynthia Rowley hosted a party at the Soho Barney's Co-Op to mark the launch of her latest collaboration with Roxy, a deal set to endure over the next three years.
The surf-inspired line has surfer chicks covered whether they're hitting the waves or the boardwalk bar. Wet suits, swim suits, dresses, and board shorts in great neons and pastels (Rowley said she was inspired by the colors on one of her Meyerhoffer surfboards), topped off with great sandals and accessories, including an awesome gold shark tooth pendant.
Prices range from $13 to $225.




Fittingly, Rowley had pro surfers Kassia Meador and Lisa Andersen (four-time world champ) model some of the looks. Andersen was decked out in a neoprene dress, while Meador rocked a bandeau top and leggings, paired with her own blazer.


They both also had on Rowley for Roxy footwear.


Cynthia Rowley:


She's TINY. I was shocked to hear her say that she grew up surfing in Montauk.

Finally, my favorite pic (and outfits) of the night


The line hits stores this month - you can find it at Barneys, Colette, and Cynthia Rowley and Roxy stores.

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

New Obsession..

This is the second Smythe leather jacket I've seen in a week that has left me drooling. It might be catching up to Rick Owens as my favorite purveyor of timeless yet ridiculously cool leather jackets. . .

*Photo courtesy of Lucky Mag

Wednesday, March 24, 2010

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

The Young and the Restless

My favorites of Vogue Enfants:







Gilt: Staying On Top and Ahead

Click for an awesome article on Gilt Groupe: its creation, its rise to the top, and the new challenges it faces.

*Photo courtesy of NYMag

Go Fish

The biggest trend in apparel this spring seems to be....buying and selling brands?

-Jones Apparel Group added Robert Rodriguez to its portfolio.
-PPR sells 3 of its non-luxury related businesses to 'clean up' its act and make room for luxury brand acquisitions.
-PVH announces its buying Tommy Hilfiger
-Richemont buys out Natalie Massanet's stake in Net-a-Porter
-Struggling French Connection Group is putting Nicole Farhi brand up for sale

What's next? My speculation is the hemmoraging Liz Claiborne, Inc. will put some of its brands up for sale...

Oops...

Ok I take back what I said.

Somehow I missed the headline last week that AE Outfitters is closing down Martin & Osa after the brand racked up $33 million in losses for the company in its last fiscal year. I am surprised, but not shocked - It was certainly clear that the brand never really hit the ground running. But I guess since they kept it afloat for 4 years, I assumed it had to have been providing some kind of worthwhile cash flow for the company, if only to fund its activity with its flagship label.

When I think about it, I am a little inquisitive about why it didn't work out. For starters, like I had mentioned before, M&O was, from the beginning, a stark contrast from AE. It targeted an older audience (say, mid 20s and 30s) with a more trend-focused aesthetic. So, rule out the issue of cannibalization - because that wasn't (or shouldn't have been) the case.

The product - in my opinion, the product was good. It was great quality, on point with trend, and value priced. There was variety and choice. Martin & Osa stores also carried shoes and accessories from other brands, including Ray-Ban, Linea Pelle, and Dolce Vita - which not only improved their assortment, but also allowed the brand to disseminate clearly to the customer the kind of look and lifestyle it was aiming for.

The only major issue I can pinpoint is in the company's marketing initiatives. I don't feel like they pushed the brand in any way, or made enough of an effort to create a buzz. Almost 4 years in and I still know many people who say "What's Martin & Osa?"

Though I'll be sad to see the brand go, I suppose it was a good decision: $AEO.N went up a dollar and three cents that day to $18.18.

Saturday, March 13, 2010

Inspired By

My favorite kind of style is that of the French girl: simple pieces livened up with ingenious mixing and matching and layering. Add some bedhead and the look you get is a little quirky, a little boy-ish, and a whole lot of effortlessness.
Cue Clemence Poesy, my favorite French actress. She embodies the easy breezy French girl style.








Perfection


Rumpled, slouched, unbuttoned, ripped perfection.

Abercrombie: Near Its End?



On Wednesday, American retailer Abercrombie & Fitch reported that it will continue its trend of deep discounts in effort to boost lagging sales.

After seeing consistent double-digit drops in comp store sales last season, the company said it will heavily POS merchandise to bump sales, acknowledging the "gross margin erosion" that will ensue.

A&F will also look into shutting its least profitable doors, having identified 200+ underperforming stores. The company hopes that in doing so, they'll not only free up cash for better investments, but also improve their brand equity by regaining exclusivity.

But what about in the long run? The company cannot survive on a business model of markdowns to fuel sales. For long run growth, I really think the company needs a complete re-positioning and re-branding. I've been saying this for years -- the company's apparel is stale and repeated. Nothing changes from year to year. I went into an Abercrombie a few weeks ago for the first time in years -- and it looked exactly as how I remembered it back from my high school days. Polos, suggestive graphic tees, dangerously short pleated skirts, destructed denim, and of course, the overwhelming stench of cologne.

I understand that since its inception, A&F has distinguished itself as a very distinct lifestyle brand with a specific aesthetic, which breeds a very loyal customer -- but it seems that as of late, that customer is looking for something else. This may not be as applicable to the A&F male customer, but certainly for the female customer. She is no longer interested in replenishing her A&F polos with the season's newest colors or adding another graphic crew neck tee to her collection. She wants fashion; she wants to mimick what her favorite celebrities are wearing; she wants relevant trends. And thats why she's turning to retailers like H&M and Forever 21. They are responsive to fashion trends and celebrity style.

I guess to be fair, I can't really compare A&F to fast fashion players as they're in a very different business. But there are a lot of other mass retailers out there that have been able to stay on point with trend. A&F, like any other lifestyle brand, has stayed true to its roots and the DNA of its brand, but perhaps too much so; it really hasn't ever been able to reflect the trends from runways and magazines in its own apparel like other mass retailers have.

Take American Eagle Outfitters for example. It is A&F's biggest competitor. I've also recently visited AE stores and can vouch that they have picked up on some of the season's big trends - non-denim pants, embellished knits, boyfriend shirts. Even more so for the company's other brand, Martin & Osa, which competes more closely with J.Crew.

Another point -- why the hell would A&F create another brand - Hollister - which sells exactly the same product as its flagship label???? I can't think of anything that differentiates the two brands other than price point - even the quality looks the same to me. With AE outfitters, they were very smart to create Martin & Osa so they could extend their reach to an older audience with a more polished aesthetic. Or J.Crew - it birthed Madewell to target a trendier, riskier customer with a whole different lifestyle than the J.Crew customer.

I guess I've got a lot of beef with A&F - I really could go on and on about this...but no worries, I won't. Back to REAL fashion..

Sample Sales





The Cobra Snake


Saturday, March 6, 2010

Obsessed


This Campomaggi bucket bag is featured in this month's Lucky Magazine. I'm in love - its perfectly distressed in all the right places and I adore all the detailing and the color - so rich. Too bad Campomaggi is so hard to find in the states - the Bloomingdale's here does carry Campomaggi bags so I just may have to stop by tomorrow...

I also found this other bag while searching the brand online- a great washed leather carryall that'd be perfect for travel. It comes in two colors but I like this one best.


Sunday, February 28, 2010

Rock and Roll


*Photo courtesy of the Cobra Snake

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

J.Crew Goes Global via Net-a-Porter

This week, American retailer J.Crew announced that come May, it will begin global distribution via a partnership with Net-a-Porter, a luxury e-commerce site. Prior to that, J.Crew has been available only in the U.S. and Japan; now, as the company jumps the line to the wholesale side with the platform of Net-a-Porter, consumers in 170 countries around the world can now shop J.Crew. The site will not only feature Net-a-Porter's buyers' picks from J.Crew's collection, but also an array of exclusives designed just for the site. Net-a-Porter founder Natalie Messenet said of the deal, "The days of geographical barriers are over. Consumers are seeing J.Crew in all the fashion magazines mixed in with designer labels."

When I read the headline, I was beaming. It's a truly brilliant business partnership. Many people do not realize how difficult global distribution is to achieve. The expenses involved are countless -- PPE expenses for distribution centers, shipping costs and duties, cost of labor, etc. It may not make sense for a company to invest the money to extend their distribution beyond its native country -- the business potential overseas might not be enough to allow the company to realize economies of scale. I can think of many global brands with immense presences in the shops of international retailers that still cannot handle a global distribution on their own end through the e-comm channel (my company comes to mind).

However, a strategic alliance like that of J.Crew and Net-a-Porter could be just the key. Business partnerships are all about synergies and competencies. What can J.Crew get from Net-a-Porter? What can Net-a-Porter get from J.Crew? To state the obvious, by tapping into Net-a-Porter's resources and its existing distribution network, J.Crew can now hit markets across all continents. But beyond that, it is probably going to quadruple its brand equity by increasing its international exposure. Now, it can transform from American lifestyle brand into a global lifestyle brand for customers seeking luxury and "classics with a twist" everywhere. And even the mere association with Net-a-Porter is enough to elevate its brand; the site is one of the leading e-tailers of luxe goods. It has an existing reputation as the best of the best. A company that can convince Isabel Marant (a designer known eminently for being so uber-exclusive in her wholesale distribution that you might never come across her line in a store) to SELL ONLINE? This news rocked the fashion world like you couldn't believe. A company that could do that -- well, they must be good.

Back to competencies - Having its hand dipped in the international pool is also a great way to lessen risk against an adverse economy at home. After a bloody battle with the American recession, many retailers have looked into joining booming markets overseas for financial savior. One of the reasons (perhaps most important) that my company succeeds is because of its presence overseas; it is in fact a much, much bigger brand globally than it is domestically. So when our sales here are subpar (well, we're hitting plan, but just barely), we're still winning the big race because of our activity overseas.

Now -- what can Net-a-Porter get from J.Crew? Well to start, it garners the patronage of J.Crew fans around the globe -- many of whom might not shop Net-a-Porter otherwise. Though it still has a luxe aesthetic, J.Crew undoubtedly occupies a lower price point than most of Net-a-Porter brands. And price aside, its products are great VALUE. So for value-seeking customers who want luxury but don't want to shell out $625 for a straw L'Wren Scott hat (wtf? who would?), they could turn to J.Crew for a hat just as adorable, just as trend-right, just as expensive looking, but for a friendlier price.

Next, we know that Net-a-Porter plans to offer J.Crew exclusives. This is smart on two accounts. First, your international customer is not entirely the same as your U.S. customer. While some trends are indeed global, others aren't. I heard J.Crew will develop exclusive colorways of existing styles for Net-a-Porter. This is a great, easy (from the design/merch standpoint) and fairly inexpensive way to tailor to the international customer. But on top of that -- I'm sure Net-a-Porter is well aware that J.Crew isn't just a clothing line. It's a lifestyle brand, and one that its customers feel a deep affinity to. I speak from experience -- you don't just like J.Crew; you LOVE J.Crew. You want everything, and you want it in two colors. So not only will Net-a-Porter attract clicks from J.Crew fans abroad, but it will still draw in domestic shoppers who want the exclusives.

The whole thing is genius, really. I couldn't have imagined a better partnership. Can't wait to see how the two companies roll it out in May -- and what the international reaction will be like.

Tuesday, February 23, 2010

On the Web

As an avid online shopper, I spend a majority….most….of my spare time surfing the web for deals, fresh designers, and new sites. While e-boutiques like ShopBop and Revolve will always be my go-tos, I absolutely love finding below-the-radar shops and sites. These hidden treasures sometimes house the best of the best: up and coming labels, or simply adorable finds that you can't find anywhere else.

And that is precisely why I love Spool No. 72. The site offers casual apparel and accessories that are easy to throw on and go. The look is very reminescent of Anthropologie -- feminine without being prissy, laid back without being basic or boring. For knitwear fans, the site has a great assortment of chunky knits -- unfortunately, most are now out of stock (there is still 1 left of this vest though!)-- but we'll certainly keep this place in mind come next fall.


For now, though, I’m particularly loving the spring assortment – light, airy wovens with pretty embroidery for a hippie, boho-chic vibe. I also LOVE this “Quarter Horse” silk blouse. Unfortunately, only size L is in stock but I was informed by the site’s team that they will be re-stocking inventory AND introducing new spring items early next month. I’ll be checking the site everyday until then…


*Photos courtesy of SpoolNo72.com